March
23, 2015 was Garudan Thookkam at Pazhaveedu Bhagavathy Temple, Alappuzha.
Garudan
thookkam is a ritual that comes as part of Meena Bharani festival of the
temple. It is there in many Mahaakaali temples in Kerala.
The
story is like this- The two fierce Asuras (demons) prayed to Lord Brahma who
granted them their boon of immunity from death at the hands of any man, and
that only a woman would kill them. The duo became very powerful and started
conquering the universe, killing many innocents and rishis during the process. After several attempts by the gods to defeat them,
Lord Siva created the
angry and powerful Goddess Bhadrakali from
his third eye. Devi went on to challenge the demons and a fierce battle ensued,
in which a lion carried Devi on its back. In the end Goddess killed the demons
and was so very angry that the god feared Her anger might destroy the world.
The bhoothagana, servants of Lord Siva, danced in front of her to reduce her
anger. Lord Siva Himself lay down in front of Her so She could dance on His
chest, so that the world would not shatter when She stamped Her feet. Then the
Goddess calmed a bit, but was still thirsty (some stories say that the lion was
thirsty). Then Lord Vishnu pricked a hook at the back of his vehicle, the
Garuda (the Eagle God). A dancing and bleeding Garuda was taken to Kali and She
was offered three drops of blood which quenched the thirst.
The
festival lasts for more than a week although the main ritual is only for a day.
The whole town celebrates. In memory of the Bhoothangana dance, a Padayani-
song and dance ritual wearing masks-is performed. The vaadyamelam (musical)
with Thappu (an instrument cut from jackfruit tree hardwood and covered with
buffalo hide) is very loud and powerful- it is called asuravadya. Padayani comes from all parts of the vicinity and goes
to temple. Also there are thalappolis
on most days of the week, and temple Para. Then on the day, there is Garudan thookkam where the people who
dress up as Garuda perform a colourful dance. After the
dance performance, the Garuda dangles from a shaft hooking the skin on his
back. The ritual is performed colourfully with Garudas taken in a procession on
hand pulled carts (chaad).The drop of
blood is offered to the Goddess. The Goddess is supposed to be extremely
powerful at the time. She is covered in sandal paste, dressed up in rich silk udayadas and thick gold ornaments. Her
face radiates the glow and strength of the feminine at its most powerful form.
There is electricity in the air, and one can actually touch and taste the
devotion. Tears well up and the whole being concentrates on the prayer that
comes naturally from the soul and flows out through the lips.
 |
| Garudan Blessing |
This
year the vazhipaadu was from our
home. Father was working on it for the past one year. He prepared the house so
that Garuda can have a separate room for dressing up etc. All relatives,
friends, neighbours and acquaintances were invited. Meals were arranged at home
for everyone, as well as accommodation for family members who came from afar,
and also for others who needed it. All details were taken care of by father and
a few of his friends, who were extremely helpful throughout. The effort and
expense was even more than arranging a fairly big time Kerala Hindu style
wedding ceremony at home. But it was worth it. I especially enjoyed the family
reunion, although really missed the dear ones who went on to the next life in
the recent past.
On
23rd morning we all gathered in front of the house, chatting and swapping
stories. By afternoon the two devotees who were to be Garudas of the day
reached along with their entourage who started dressing them up for the ritual.
By evening the Padayani melam came and performed in front of the house. My
triplets enjoyed it all, and they played without a break with their cousins of
their age group. After dinner I brought them to one of the rented guest rooms,
and they slept. At mid night Garudas were ready and the dance started. They
danced for about an hour along with the Padayani melam, and the fire performances
in between was spellbinding. There were some fireworks too. Garudas blessed all
of us. I watched it for some time, then returned to the room, to be there just
in case the babies woke up. Everyone else went with the Garudas to the chaad,
and then there was dancing on the chaad. It was pulled and taken to the temple,
where Garudas took some babies in their arms and blessed. The babies were
scared and crying. Afterwards the Hanging of the Eagle God was performed. Then
as daylight started coming, everyone went home- to sleep off the day.
